De Telegraaf
This is an english translation of an full page article that was published in Dutch newspaper De Telegraaf in september 2007. Click here (PDF) to see the original article.
Exclusive wine trips to South Africa in vogue
On the grapevine trail …………
By PIETER NIJDAM
CAPE TOWN – „The neighbour’s cat, drowned in red wine”, it says on the menu of Brasserie den Anker on the Waterfront in Cape Town. A free but fetching translation of the traditional Belgian dish ’Chicken a la Flamande’.
In preparation for hosting the FIFA World Cup in 2010, South Africa’s Table Bay metropolis is working hard to bolster its international image. Beside the Belgian brasserie, the waterfront bustles with boats full of American and British tourists taking daytrips to Robbeneiland.
A bit further along, at the foot of the majestic Table Mountain, initial preparations are underway for the new stadium where a number of the World Cup matches will be played. That is, provided this variation on the Amsterdam ArenA is completed in time, which many have their doubts about. The rest of Cape Town, home to more than 3 million people, has been making the necessary preparations. Over the past few years, one luxury five-star hotel after another has been built on the Waterfront, the beating heart of the city.
With the prospect of tens of thousands of foreign football supporters flocking to the city, Cape Town is also keen to put itself on the culinary map. And this is a great city for good food. For it was no coincidence that Jan van Riebeeck decided to found a supply post for the Dutch East India Company here in 1652.
The Dutch merchants realised that the mild climate and fertile ground of Africa’s southernmost tip were perfect for growing vegetables and fruit. It was an ideal spot for Dutch East India Company ships to break their long journey to the East, rest their crew and stock up on supplies. As wine kept longer on board than water, Van Riebeeck decided to plant grapevines.
Orange royalty
Some 350 years later, wine-growing is one of the corks which keeps the South African economy buoyant. Near Cape Town lies the hamlet of Constantia with its estate, which originally bore the same name but was later split into Groot and Klein Constantia. This is the native soil of one of the world’s most famous wines: Vin de Constance. Throughout the centuries, famous figures including Frederic the Great, Napoleon and Bismarck drank of this sweet wine, which was also a favourite with the Dutch royal family. However, Constantia’s speciality these days is Sauvignon Blanc, which comes out crispy and fresh thanks to the proximity of the cool ocean waters.
The wide choice of trendy restaurants is testimony to the fact that Cape Town has moved with the times. Take The Showroom, where the darkly handsome waiter Jeremiah (21) quickens the heart of many a female guest. Like a fully-fledged clone of Gordon Ramsay, chef Bruce Robertson shouts abuse at his brigade. His hungry customers watch as one dish after another is consigned to the bin after failing to make the grade. I guess we must have caught them on an off day …
Emily’s, owned by Peter Veldsman, takes a more classic approach. The South African equivalent of Dutch ‘professor of taste’ Peter Klosse still puts biltong on the menu, albeit a multi-starred variation on this dried meat speciality. Veldsman proudly informs us that Emily’s has been named Africa’s best restaurant for 2008 (the official announcement has yet to be made). He is also warm-hearted. Every year his restaurant school nextdoor to Emily’s covers the cost of taking on two disadvantaged black students to train as top chefs.
‘Sideways’ Cape-style
A day in Cape Town is excellent preparation for the culinary delights of the region. We refer to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, the most beautiful wine region in the world. After the film ’Sideways’ gave a huge boost to wine tourism in California, it would appear that it is now South Africa’s turn. Along the wine routes of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Wellington one after another whitewashed Dutch colonial-style farmhouse is being converted into luxury lodges.
The Bovlei Valley Retreat near Wellington is just such a little piece of heaven-on-earth. Apparently, Dutch broadcasting organisation VPRO thought so too, as it chose this as the location for shooting the drama series Stellenbosch, soon to be shown on Dutch television. Tip: take the resident dog Shiraz for a walk to the nearby wine estate Nabygelegen, whose congenial owner James McKenzie will welcome you with open arms.
Zen-like
But for those who manage to find their way to Klein Genot in the Franschhoek valley, no superlative is quite up to describing this beautiful wine & country estate. Owned by toy magnate Joey Diamond and his wife Angie, Klein Genot is perhaps South Africa’s best-kept secret. Pop stars such as Sir Elton John come here to find peace and quiet in its zen-like courtyard. And if you get thirsty, simply go down to the enormous cellar, where Joey keeps thousands of bottles, including his home-grown pride: Black Swan, named for the two black swans that glide on the estate’s pond. You do have to book well in advance, as this gloriously refined bed and breakfast only has six rooms.
For the wine freak (and everyone who comes to this region automatically becomes one), visiting the leading wine estates is an absolute must. For example, Boekenhoutskloof, run by the quirky Marc Kent.
No wine trip to South Africa is complete without a visit to Vergelegen. This impressive wine estate was founded in 1700 by Willem Adriaan van der Stel, then governor of the Cape Colony. The extensive estate is a favourite with locals for Sunday picnics. For a modest contribution you can partake of a tasting. However, the top wine, the flagship V, can only be bought by the bottle. But then 50 euros does buy you something really special.
Crime
Just like any other major city, Cape Town has its crime problem. Foreign tourists are targeted from time to time, mainly by disadvantaged residents of the townships. However, the number of muggings is nowhere near that of cities such as Johannesburg. In the run-up to the 2010 World Cup, mayor Hellen Zille – Cape Town’s answer to Margaret Thatcher – has announced a zero-tolerance policy.
The inner city around the Waterfront is considered to be very safe. That also goes for the smaller wine towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, where there is a relatively large police presence. However, you always need to be vigilant, do not walk the streets alone late at night and steer clear of the townships.
Insets:
A series of radical restoration projects has magically turned estate De Nieuwe Plantatie, founded by Hermanus Bosman in 1717, into one of South Africa’s best hotels. The Grande Roche terrace overlooks the Drakenstein valley in the heart of the Paarl wine region.
Travel guide
Exclusive Culitravel offers wine trips to the most beautiful spots in and around Cape Town. Four trips, each with a personal guide and involving a group of no more than 10, are organised a year. A trip costs 3,999 euros a head, but this includes all costs (flights, accommodation in exclusive hotels, transport, meals and wines at top restaurants).
www.exclusiveculitravel.nl
Captions:
Young women bottle the new harvest on the Groote Post wine estate.
James McKenzie welcomes his guests with open arms in the cellar of wine estate Nabygelegen.
The true wine freak simply must visit Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof.
The secluded Klein Genot is one of the world’s most luxurious bed and breakfasts.
Colourful houses in the Cape Town district of Bo-Kaap. In the background, Table Mountain swathed in mist.
Exclusive wine trips to South Africa in vogue
On the grapevine trail …………
By PIETER NIJDAM
CAPE TOWN – „The neighbour’s cat, drowned in red wine”, it says on the menu of Brasserie den Anker on the Waterfront in Cape Town. A free but fetching translation of the traditional Belgian dish ’Chicken a la Flamande’.
In preparation for hosting the FIFA World Cup in 2010, South Africa’s Table Bay metropolis is working hard to bolster its international image. Beside the Belgian brasserie, the waterfront bustles with boats full of American and British tourists taking daytrips to Robbeneiland.
A bit further along, at the foot of the majestic Table Mountain, initial preparations are underway for the new stadium where a number of the World Cup matches will be played. That is, provided this variation on the Amsterdam ArenA is completed in time, which many have their doubts about. The rest of Cape Town, home to more than 3 million people, has been making the necessary preparations. Over the past few years, one luxury five-star hotel after another has been built on the Waterfront, the beating heart of the city.
With the prospect of tens of thousands of foreign football supporters flocking to the city, Cape Town is also keen to put itself on the culinary map. And this is a great city for good food. For it was no coincidence that Jan van Riebeeck decided to found a supply post for the Dutch East India Company here in 1652.
The Dutch merchants realised that the mild climate and fertile ground of Africa’s southernmost tip were perfect for growing vegetables and fruit. It was an ideal spot for Dutch East India Company ships to break their long journey to the East, rest their crew and stock up on supplies. As wine kept longer on board than water, Van Riebeeck decided to plant grapevines.
Orange royalty
Some 350 years later, wine-growing is one of the corks which keeps the South African economy buoyant. Near Cape Town lies the hamlet of Constantia with its estate, which originally bore the same name but was later split into Groot and Klein Constantia. This is the native soil of one of the world’s most famous wines: Vin de Constance. Throughout the centuries, famous figures including Frederic the Great, Napoleon and Bismarck drank of this sweet wine, which was also a favourite with the Dutch royal family. However, Constantia’s speciality these days is Sauvignon Blanc, which comes out crispy and fresh thanks to the proximity of the cool ocean waters.
The wide choice of trendy restaurants is testimony to the fact that Cape Town has moved with the times. Take The Showroom, where the darkly handsome waiter Jeremiah (21) quickens the heart of many a female guest. Like a fully-fledged clone of Gordon Ramsay, chef Bruce Robertson shouts abuse at his brigade. His hungry customers watch as one dish after another is consigned to the bin after failing to make the grade. I guess we must have caught them on an off day …
Emily’s, owned by Peter Veldsman, takes a more classic approach. The South African equivalent of Dutch ‘professor of taste’ Peter Klosse still puts biltong on the menu, albeit a multi-starred variation on this dried meat speciality. Veldsman proudly informs us that Emily’s has been named Africa’s best restaurant for 2008 (the official announcement has yet to be made). He is also warm-hearted. Every year his restaurant school nextdoor to Emily’s covers the cost of taking on two disadvantaged black students to train as top chefs.
‘Sideways’ Cape-style
A day in Cape Town is excellent preparation for the culinary delights of the region. We refer to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, the most beautiful wine region in the world. After the film ’Sideways’ gave a huge boost to wine tourism in California, it would appear that it is now South Africa’s turn. Along the wine routes of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Wellington one after another whitewashed Dutch colonial-style farmhouse is being converted into luxury lodges.
The Bovlei Valley Retreat near Wellington is just such a little piece of heaven-on-earth. Apparently, Dutch broadcasting organisation VPRO thought so too, as it chose this as the location for shooting the drama series Stellenbosch, soon to be shown on Dutch television. Tip: take the resident dog Shiraz for a walk to the nearby wine estate Nabygelegen, whose congenial owner James McKenzie will welcome you with open arms.
Zen-like
But for those who manage to find their way to Klein Genot in the Franschhoek valley, no superlative is quite up to describing this beautiful wine & country estate. Owned by toy magnate Joey Diamond and his wife Angie, Klein Genot is perhaps South Africa’s best-kept secret. Pop stars such as Sir Elton John come here to find peace and quiet in its zen-like courtyard. And if you get thirsty, simply go down to the enormous cellar, where Joey keeps thousands of bottles, including his home-grown pride: Black Swan, named for the two black swans that glide on the estate’s pond. You do have to book well in advance, as this gloriously refined bed and breakfast only has six rooms.
For the wine freak (and everyone who comes to this region automatically becomes one), visiting the leading wine estates is an absolute must. For example, Boekenhoutskloof, run by the quirky Marc Kent.
No wine trip to South Africa is complete without a visit to Vergelegen. This impressive wine estate was founded in 1700 by Willem Adriaan van der Stel, then governor of the Cape Colony. The extensive estate is a favourite with locals for Sunday picnics. For a modest contribution you can partake of a tasting. However, the top wine, the flagship V, can only be bought by the bottle. But then 50 euros does buy you something really special.
Crime
Just like any other major city, Cape Town has its crime problem. Foreign tourists are targeted from time to time, mainly by disadvantaged residents of the townships. However, the number of muggings is nowhere near that of cities such as Johannesburg. In the run-up to the 2010 World Cup, mayor Hellen Zille – Cape Town’s answer to Margaret Thatcher – has announced a zero-tolerance policy.
The inner city around the Waterfront is considered to be very safe. That also goes for the smaller wine towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, where there is a relatively large police presence. However, you always need to be vigilant, do not walk the streets alone late at night and steer clear of the townships.
Insets:
A series of radical restoration projects has magically turned estate De Nieuwe Plantatie, founded by Hermanus Bosman in 1717, into one of South Africa’s best hotels. The Grande Roche terrace overlooks the Drakenstein valley in the heart of the Paarl wine region.
Travel guide
Exclusive Culitravel offers wine trips to the most beautiful spots in and around Cape Town. Four trips, each with a personal guide and involving a group of no more than 10, are organised a year. A trip costs 3,999 euros a head, but this includes all costs (flights, accommodation in exclusive hotels, transport, meals and wines at top restaurants).
www.exclusiveculitravel.nl
Captions:
Young women bottle the new harvest on the Groote Post wine estate.
James McKenzie welcomes his guests with open arms in the cellar of wine estate Nabygelegen.
The true wine freak simply must visit Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof.
The secluded Klein Genot is one of the world’s most luxurious bed and breakfasts.
Colourful houses in the Cape Town district of Bo-Kaap. In the background, Table Mountain swathed in mist.
