Qualis Magazine
This is an english translation of a 5 page article that was
published in Dutch quality magazine Qualis in April 2008. Click here to see the original article in Dutch.
South Africa's Western Cape: Horn of plenty
As soon as we leave the arrivals hall of Cape Town airport it's obvious: there's a lot of work going on here. The whole area around Cape Town International is one great building site, with countless cranes performing a mechanical ballet and pneumatic and hydraulic equipment and machinery playing a deafening symphony. Of course all this activity has a lot to do with the FIFA World Cup to be hosted here in 2010, but it also symbolises the national mindset since Apartheid was abolished in the 1990s. Afrikaners, white, coloured and black, are proud of their country and all that's been achieved in recent years. Over the next few days we will find out that their pride is completely justified.
Text: Dick Zoet
Photography: Séan Damstra
Late in the evening the private terrace of our apartment is a good place to be. The house wine of this ‘lodge’ yet again exceeds our wildest expectations. The languid spring heat feels great and the conversation naturally turns to our experiences in South Africa. We agree that we have been pleasantly surprised by almost everything. This is a country you can easily lose your heart to. And that's not just because of the stunning landscape but it also has a lot to do with the friendly and relaxed locals. Not to mention the exquisite culinary tradition which is evolving and developing all the time.
Contemporary South African cuisine is a pleasing mixture of styles and flavours. Every chef we have met so far has his or her own style. And this individual approach results in a refreshing variety of dishes. Everyone uses ingredients that are fresh and seasonal. Traditional South African is combined effortlessly with modern molecular. Perfect service turns every meal into a special occasion and the seemingly endless range of excellent local wines are the icing on the cake. All this has turned the Western Cape into a virtual 'horn of plenty'.
Tailor-made
The South African spring sun is dipping low over the mountain tops as we enter Paarl. The temperature is a pleasant 27 degrees, but most of the guests at Bosman’s Restaurant apparently find it too chilly to sit out on the terrace. We follow their example and are led into the ‘W.A. de Klerk Private Dining Room’, where the Scali Pinotage 2004 proves to be an excellent wine. Certainly in combination with the ostrich tartare we are served at Grande Roche in Paarl. The wine and food combinations that follow are of the same high standard. This restaurant has become famous, both in South Africa and beyond. Many guests spare neither money nor effort for an opportunity to enjoy the creations of chef Frank Zlomke. We feel privileged, and that is exactly how our tour organiser Jos van Krimpen wants us to feel. The term ‘group travel’ is a relative one in his book. His groups consist of no more than 10 people, whom he takes to “visit friends”. This approach calls for tailor-made service and that is exactly what his company Exclusive Culitravel specialises in. Our luxurious and smallscale lodgings serve as a good illustration. A private chauffeur picked us up at the airport and took us to Bovlei Valley Retreat, an intimate and very comfortable guesthouse with loads of atmosphere, run by British expats Abbi and Lee Wallis. They fell in love with this beautiful country while on holiday, after which Lee gave up his job as a doctor with the Royal Air Force in order to pursue their dream. The result: a beautifully situated country house with its own vineyard and a wonderful place to be. A place you never want to leave, in fact.
Afrikaans
It is hardly surprising that this was a favourite staging post for Dutch East India Company (VOC) crews, who then found it hard to tear themselves away to continue their voyage. The stunning landscape still exercises a special attraction. A salient detail: while the Dutch have mixed feelings about their VOC past, South Africans feel very differently about it. The VOC sign, with all its uncomfortable associations, can still be seen in many places and South Africans take a certain pride in this chapter of their turbulent history. Dutch rule did at least give them the Afrikaans language which, contrary to what many believe, is not the language of the white farmers. Certainly in the Western Cape, Afrikaans is the lingua franca of all population groups, as our chauffeur Louwtjie explains to our surprise. To lend substance to his statement, he takes us to the Afrikaans Language monument near Paarl where he treats us to a short history of Afrikaans and finally recites a poem with great fervour. Another myth bites the dust.
Friendly and kind
Actually, this keeps happening throughout our stay. Because - and let's not beat around the bush here - before we came we had plenty of reservations about the trip. People are quick to assure you that this huge country is not exactly safe. However, our experience is very different. If you avoid the desolate townships, all you find is how friendly and infectiously kind the people are. Away from the slums you get to see the phenomenal natural beauty of this region. And there are plenty of opportunities to be amazed by the gastronomic standards. Because it turns out that it's not just Bosman’s that has a truly wonderful kitchen; every evening Van Krimpen manages to impress us with mouthwatering dishes at various restaurants. The Michelin-star system does not yet extend to the African continent, but it is as clear as can be that many of the restaurants we visited would easily qualify for one or more of these highly coveted distinctions. And all at a fraction of the price you would pay in Europe. Here, an exquisite four-course lunch costs the same as a hamburger meal in the Netherlands. And there is no pretentiousness: the chefs are all very approachable and are happy to come to your table to explain their views on cooking. Service isn't stiff, but pleasant, relaxed and yet correct. Given all this, it's not surprising that the various restaurants are fully-booked most days; to dine at a top restaurant you sometimes have to book months in advance.
Small scale, high quality
Van Krimpen only got to know this country quite recently, when he came to South Africa to have his bad eyes lasered. And then he had a good look around and was instantly delighted with all he could see. “This landscape, this quality and this service simply can't be found in Europe any more. I was sold from the start.” Back home, he radically overhauled the services offered by his company: out went the trips to Tuscany and Bordeaux, in came exclusive, smallscale, high-quality trips to the Western Cape. Which means no busloads of curious people being rushed past the big, well-known wine companies, but small groups of true enthusiasts with an eye for quality. This approach has proved to be successful and Van Krimpen now organises several tailor-made trips a year and his services are in high demand.
This is a trend that can be seen throughout the tourist industry, with an increasing range of specialised trips on offer. Theme trips are ‘hot’ and the variety of themes would appear to be almost infinite. Culinary trips are most popular. And as so frequently happens: the more popular something is, the more the quality on offer declines. Popular trips are compromised by people wanting to make quick, easy money. Van Krimpen applies a very different philosophy: he would not want to go on that sort of trip himself, which means he would never inflict such a thing on his guests. So he went looking for - and found - the fine fleur of South Africa and takes pleasure in introducing his guests to it.
Revelation
This means that every tasting and every meal a revelation. During a homemade meal at the Nabygelegen estate (Wellington) we are welcomed into the home like long-lost relatives. Winemaker James McKenzie, who is a chatty character, gives us a refill - hardly a punishment.
A few days later we are guests at Groote Post in Darling. It turns out that our host Shaun McLaughlin believes that wine is there for drinking and not just for tasting. So we are happy that it comes with a large and extremely tasty lunch. When we say goodbye, we embrace like old friends.
Which, by the way, is a feeling that you keep getting here. The people we meet, white, black and coloured (not our classification but the one officially applied in this country) are all warm, open and friendly. In a funny and inexplicable sort of way, a visit to this region feels like coming home. Everyone is hospitable and does his or her very best to make you feel completely at ease. The atmosphere is relaxed and arrogance would appear to be something they are not familiar with here.
Most of us have mixed feelings about South Africa. Naturally we feel a connection to the country on historical grounds. On the other hand, that history, the story of the VOC, is not exactly the proudest chapter in the history of the Low Countries. Another example: we were horrified at the Apartheid regime, but at the same time – how Dutch! - more than keen to do business with the white minority rulers. But what troubles us most is the image of unbridled violence, the disillusioning lack of safety and the constantly lurking conflict between the various population groups as portrayed in the media. This image proves to be completely at odds with reality, which is perhaps the greatest and most wonderful surprise.
Stubborn
Which is not to say that it's all hearts and flowers in this immense country. Our chauffeur Louwtjie tells us a bit about it on one of our outings. Black and white still do not mix smoothly in everyday life and for example still tend to favour separate churches and sports clubs. They are no longer obliged to do so by law, but it is a stubborn remnant of the past.
The Apartheid period also had its moving stories however, as we find out when Louwtjie takes us to Pniel, a small village where black and white form a close-knit community. The Apartheid regime in all its wisdom decided to designate the place a ‘black area’, which in practice meant that the white inhabitants would have to move to a ‘white area’. However, they refused to leave their village and thus put the government on the spot. In the end, the government reconsidered and designated Pniel a ‘coloured area’. When some years later the motorway from Cape Town to Franschhoek was built, it turned out that the villagers had not yet forgotten the outrage: the bulldozers' path was blocked at the municipal limits and even today there is no motorway within the village boundaries. The old provincial road is still there as the ultimate testimony to the fact that black and white can get along together just fine.
At the end of the trip we have to confess our new love to Jos van Krimpen. Our declaration elicits a big grin. “That's not the first time I've heard that,” he says simply. “And I always say that anyone who visits this region will treasure the memories for a long time.” Which is in fact an understatement: a visit to 'his' Western Cape is unforgettable.
[inset]
Exclusive Culitravel
A passionate wine connoisseur and self-appointed ambassador of South Africa's Cape Winelands, Jos van Krimpen set up Exclusive Culitravel in order to share with you his knowledge of "...all the lovely spots and special wines, the hospitable people, the natural beauty and that wonderful climate…" All the estates, restaurants, hotels and guesthouses you visit with Exclusive Culitravel have been vetted by him and carefully selected for quality, hospitality, location, comfort and exclusivity. Both the Cape Winelands Package - an exclusive group trip - and the Tailor-made Exclusive Packages are steeped in his love of the good life. He has also mastered the art of finding creative ways to translate client wishes into exceptional travel plans. The strength of his ties with the Cape Winelands is evidenced by his involvement in the Stellenbosch Wine & Country Estate.
Van Krimpen offers two types of package:
Cape Winelands Package: groups no larger than 10, five times a year, 10 days (Friday evening to Sunday afternoon).
Tailor-made Exclusive Packages: private, groups, businesses. Round trips, safaris, cities, golf, beach, etc.
A combination of the two packages is also possible.
What to expect from your trip:
South Africa's Western Cape: Horn of plenty
As soon as we leave the arrivals hall of Cape Town airport it's obvious: there's a lot of work going on here. The whole area around Cape Town International is one great building site, with countless cranes performing a mechanical ballet and pneumatic and hydraulic equipment and machinery playing a deafening symphony. Of course all this activity has a lot to do with the FIFA World Cup to be hosted here in 2010, but it also symbolises the national mindset since Apartheid was abolished in the 1990s. Afrikaners, white, coloured and black, are proud of their country and all that's been achieved in recent years. Over the next few days we will find out that their pride is completely justified.
Text: Dick Zoet
Photography: Séan Damstra
Late in the evening the private terrace of our apartment is a good place to be. The house wine of this ‘lodge’ yet again exceeds our wildest expectations. The languid spring heat feels great and the conversation naturally turns to our experiences in South Africa. We agree that we have been pleasantly surprised by almost everything. This is a country you can easily lose your heart to. And that's not just because of the stunning landscape but it also has a lot to do with the friendly and relaxed locals. Not to mention the exquisite culinary tradition which is evolving and developing all the time.
Contemporary South African cuisine is a pleasing mixture of styles and flavours. Every chef we have met so far has his or her own style. And this individual approach results in a refreshing variety of dishes. Everyone uses ingredients that are fresh and seasonal. Traditional South African is combined effortlessly with modern molecular. Perfect service turns every meal into a special occasion and the seemingly endless range of excellent local wines are the icing on the cake. All this has turned the Western Cape into a virtual 'horn of plenty'.
Tailor-made
The South African spring sun is dipping low over the mountain tops as we enter Paarl. The temperature is a pleasant 27 degrees, but most of the guests at Bosman’s Restaurant apparently find it too chilly to sit out on the terrace. We follow their example and are led into the ‘W.A. de Klerk Private Dining Room’, where the Scali Pinotage 2004 proves to be an excellent wine. Certainly in combination with the ostrich tartare we are served at Grande Roche in Paarl. The wine and food combinations that follow are of the same high standard. This restaurant has become famous, both in South Africa and beyond. Many guests spare neither money nor effort for an opportunity to enjoy the creations of chef Frank Zlomke. We feel privileged, and that is exactly how our tour organiser Jos van Krimpen wants us to feel. The term ‘group travel’ is a relative one in his book. His groups consist of no more than 10 people, whom he takes to “visit friends”. This approach calls for tailor-made service and that is exactly what his company Exclusive Culitravel specialises in. Our luxurious and smallscale lodgings serve as a good illustration. A private chauffeur picked us up at the airport and took us to Bovlei Valley Retreat, an intimate and very comfortable guesthouse with loads of atmosphere, run by British expats Abbi and Lee Wallis. They fell in love with this beautiful country while on holiday, after which Lee gave up his job as a doctor with the Royal Air Force in order to pursue their dream. The result: a beautifully situated country house with its own vineyard and a wonderful place to be. A place you never want to leave, in fact.
Afrikaans
It is hardly surprising that this was a favourite staging post for Dutch East India Company (VOC) crews, who then found it hard to tear themselves away to continue their voyage. The stunning landscape still exercises a special attraction. A salient detail: while the Dutch have mixed feelings about their VOC past, South Africans feel very differently about it. The VOC sign, with all its uncomfortable associations, can still be seen in many places and South Africans take a certain pride in this chapter of their turbulent history. Dutch rule did at least give them the Afrikaans language which, contrary to what many believe, is not the language of the white farmers. Certainly in the Western Cape, Afrikaans is the lingua franca of all population groups, as our chauffeur Louwtjie explains to our surprise. To lend substance to his statement, he takes us to the Afrikaans Language monument near Paarl where he treats us to a short history of Afrikaans and finally recites a poem with great fervour. Another myth bites the dust.
Friendly and kind
Actually, this keeps happening throughout our stay. Because - and let's not beat around the bush here - before we came we had plenty of reservations about the trip. People are quick to assure you that this huge country is not exactly safe. However, our experience is very different. If you avoid the desolate townships, all you find is how friendly and infectiously kind the people are. Away from the slums you get to see the phenomenal natural beauty of this region. And there are plenty of opportunities to be amazed by the gastronomic standards. Because it turns out that it's not just Bosman’s that has a truly wonderful kitchen; every evening Van Krimpen manages to impress us with mouthwatering dishes at various restaurants. The Michelin-star system does not yet extend to the African continent, but it is as clear as can be that many of the restaurants we visited would easily qualify for one or more of these highly coveted distinctions. And all at a fraction of the price you would pay in Europe. Here, an exquisite four-course lunch costs the same as a hamburger meal in the Netherlands. And there is no pretentiousness: the chefs are all very approachable and are happy to come to your table to explain their views on cooking. Service isn't stiff, but pleasant, relaxed and yet correct. Given all this, it's not surprising that the various restaurants are fully-booked most days; to dine at a top restaurant you sometimes have to book months in advance.
Small scale, high quality
Van Krimpen only got to know this country quite recently, when he came to South Africa to have his bad eyes lasered. And then he had a good look around and was instantly delighted with all he could see. “This landscape, this quality and this service simply can't be found in Europe any more. I was sold from the start.” Back home, he radically overhauled the services offered by his company: out went the trips to Tuscany and Bordeaux, in came exclusive, smallscale, high-quality trips to the Western Cape. Which means no busloads of curious people being rushed past the big, well-known wine companies, but small groups of true enthusiasts with an eye for quality. This approach has proved to be successful and Van Krimpen now organises several tailor-made trips a year and his services are in high demand.
This is a trend that can be seen throughout the tourist industry, with an increasing range of specialised trips on offer. Theme trips are ‘hot’ and the variety of themes would appear to be almost infinite. Culinary trips are most popular. And as so frequently happens: the more popular something is, the more the quality on offer declines. Popular trips are compromised by people wanting to make quick, easy money. Van Krimpen applies a very different philosophy: he would not want to go on that sort of trip himself, which means he would never inflict such a thing on his guests. So he went looking for - and found - the fine fleur of South Africa and takes pleasure in introducing his guests to it.
Revelation
This means that every tasting and every meal a revelation. During a homemade meal at the Nabygelegen estate (Wellington) we are welcomed into the home like long-lost relatives. Winemaker James McKenzie, who is a chatty character, gives us a refill - hardly a punishment.
A few days later we are guests at Groote Post in Darling. It turns out that our host Shaun McLaughlin believes that wine is there for drinking and not just for tasting. So we are happy that it comes with a large and extremely tasty lunch. When we say goodbye, we embrace like old friends.
Which, by the way, is a feeling that you keep getting here. The people we meet, white, black and coloured (not our classification but the one officially applied in this country) are all warm, open and friendly. In a funny and inexplicable sort of way, a visit to this region feels like coming home. Everyone is hospitable and does his or her very best to make you feel completely at ease. The atmosphere is relaxed and arrogance would appear to be something they are not familiar with here.
Most of us have mixed feelings about South Africa. Naturally we feel a connection to the country on historical grounds. On the other hand, that history, the story of the VOC, is not exactly the proudest chapter in the history of the Low Countries. Another example: we were horrified at the Apartheid regime, but at the same time – how Dutch! - more than keen to do business with the white minority rulers. But what troubles us most is the image of unbridled violence, the disillusioning lack of safety and the constantly lurking conflict between the various population groups as portrayed in the media. This image proves to be completely at odds with reality, which is perhaps the greatest and most wonderful surprise.
Stubborn
Which is not to say that it's all hearts and flowers in this immense country. Our chauffeur Louwtjie tells us a bit about it on one of our outings. Black and white still do not mix smoothly in everyday life and for example still tend to favour separate churches and sports clubs. They are no longer obliged to do so by law, but it is a stubborn remnant of the past.
The Apartheid period also had its moving stories however, as we find out when Louwtjie takes us to Pniel, a small village where black and white form a close-knit community. The Apartheid regime in all its wisdom decided to designate the place a ‘black area’, which in practice meant that the white inhabitants would have to move to a ‘white area’. However, they refused to leave their village and thus put the government on the spot. In the end, the government reconsidered and designated Pniel a ‘coloured area’. When some years later the motorway from Cape Town to Franschhoek was built, it turned out that the villagers had not yet forgotten the outrage: the bulldozers' path was blocked at the municipal limits and even today there is no motorway within the village boundaries. The old provincial road is still there as the ultimate testimony to the fact that black and white can get along together just fine.
At the end of the trip we have to confess our new love to Jos van Krimpen. Our declaration elicits a big grin. “That's not the first time I've heard that,” he says simply. “And I always say that anyone who visits this region will treasure the memories for a long time.” Which is in fact an understatement: a visit to 'his' Western Cape is unforgettable.
[inset]
Exclusive Culitravel
A passionate wine connoisseur and self-appointed ambassador of South Africa's Cape Winelands, Jos van Krimpen set up Exclusive Culitravel in order to share with you his knowledge of "...all the lovely spots and special wines, the hospitable people, the natural beauty and that wonderful climate…" All the estates, restaurants, hotels and guesthouses you visit with Exclusive Culitravel have been vetted by him and carefully selected for quality, hospitality, location, comfort and exclusivity. Both the Cape Winelands Package - an exclusive group trip - and the Tailor-made Exclusive Packages are steeped in his love of the good life. He has also mastered the art of finding creative ways to translate client wishes into exceptional travel plans. The strength of his ties with the Cape Winelands is evidenced by his involvement in the Stellenbosch Wine & Country Estate.
Van Krimpen offers two types of package:
Cape Winelands Package: groups no larger than 10, five times a year, 10 days (Friday evening to Sunday afternoon).
Tailor-made Exclusive Packages: private, groups, businesses. Round trips, safaris, cities, golf, beach, etc.
A combination of the two packages is also possible.
What to expect from your trip:
- Top-class restaurants, hotels and romantic hideaways: beautifully situated, small-scale, comfortable, safe and personal;
- The best of the Cape Winelands: enchanting landscapes, historical sites, authentic people wildlife, cities, beach, golf, watersports, wine and gastronomy;
- Wine-tastings and guided tours of top estates where you meet the passionate winemakers and owners in person;
- Workshops with top chefs: wine and food combinations, olives/olive oil, local ingredients, the culinary roots of South Africa;
- Plenty of scope for doing your own thing, tailor-made, special wishes and dreams, even within a group package.
